How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets | Instructions and Material List
A step-by-step guide showing how we transformed the center of our home on a budget by painting our kitchen cabinets!
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Two years ago we FINALLY got the time to paint our kitchen cabinets. It’s a project we were planning to do when we bought the house. Just 5 years later…we got it done. Why did it take us so long?
#babies #2toddlers2years
Yeah…we were busy and we were tired.
Seriously though, two kids and countless other house projects later we could finally focus on the kitchen. We planned a week to do it, got babysitters for the boys for a few days, bought the supplies, and got to work. Working most of the day, (not including drying times) with two people, we got it done in about 5 days. But let me say this, we were moving as fast as we could because we only had childcare for a few days!
If you decide to take this project on, please know that times will vary based on how many cabinets you have, how much help you have, and what the weather is like. Also, I cannot stress this enough; rent a paint sprayer. Just do it. It’s the only way to keep your sanity.
If you would like PRINTABLE step-by-step instructions and a materials list you can get that HERE:
FREE PRINTABLE INSTRUCTIONS AND MATERIAL LIST
Since I assisted on this project I’m turning this post over to my husband Jarred. He researched and bought all of the supplies we needed and made this beautiful renovation happen.
How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Materials:
- TSP-PF cleaner/de-glosser
- A paint sprayer – we rented the Titan Impact 1040 electric airless paint sprayer from Sherwin Williams
- Vinyl gloves
- Painter’s tape
- Sharpie
- Eye protection
- Dust mask
- Medium sanding sponge
- Eyelet screws – 1-cm diameter
- 1 1/4 inch Drywall screws
- Wood filler
- Bondo glazing putty
- 2″ putty knife
- Brushes – I recommend
- Mini roller with a thin foam roller
- SWP multi-purpose primer
- Paintable caulk
- SWP Pro-Classic trim and door paint, SATIN – We used Sherwin Williams Alabaster
- Roll of plastic to cover countertops
- Drop cloths to place under the area where spraying doors outside and around cabinets
Take Pictures
1. Take some before pictures. This seems like an annoying step when you’re ready to work, but it will be so fun to compare with the after photo. Plus you can show off your hard work!
2. In the photo editor on your phone, number each door and drawer and label them with masking tape and a sharpie. You think you will remember which drawer or door goes where…but you won’t. Even if all of your cabinet doors are the same size they all are going to be attached to the hinges a little differently and this step will save you a lot of stress and heartache at the end of the project.
Prepare the Space
3. Clear and cover the countertops with plastic (TSP can de-gloss countertop)
4. Remove all of the cabinet hardware.
(If you plan to replace your hardware and will need to drill new holes, now is a good time to apply wood filler to the existing holes with a putty knife. They will probably need two rounds of sanding and filling, so it is a good idea to start now. Drying time can hold up the job.)
5. Wipe down all surfaces with TSP while wearing gloves. Make sure to follow the directions on the box for mixing ratios and safety procedures.
6. Once the cabinets are dry, lightly (and quickly) sand all surfaces, focusing on high wear areas. The purpose of this step is to prep the surface for better prime adherence. A quick roughing of the surface will do.
7. Reapply wood filler if needed and sand after the required drying time.
8. Use a putty knife and fill any scratches and superficial dents/dings with Bondo. If you really want to hide old hardware holes, apply a thin layer of Bondo to these also. (again, ventilate the room. potent stuff.)
-Sand after the required drying time
9. Apply a piece of masking tape to each door and drawer and label it with the corresponding number.
10. Remove all doors/drawers
11. Drill two 1/32 bit holes in the TOPS of upper cabinet doors and BOTTOMS of floor cabinet doors using a masking tape template. The goal of the template is to center two holes on the door top and to have all of the holes be the same distance apart for hanging. To make the template, mark a strip of tape with a centerline and two holes.
12. Screw eyelet screws in holes so that each door can be hung. I used my garage ceiling joist to hang the doors after spraying. If you can’t do this, you can set up a series of ladders and 2x4x10 boards and hang them from those.
13. Before painting, wipe all surfaces free of dust.
Priming and Painting
14. Prime the cabinet frames that are indoors using the mini roller and a brush. Allow the primer to dry very well. The more you let the primer cure the better it will seal any stains or oils in your wood that might seep through.
15. a. Before spray-priming doors, attach a piece of painter’s tape to one of the eyelets of each door and use a sharpie to label its number. You need a way to label the doors so that you do not spray over the numbers. I am sure there is a better way to do this, but my method works. Just keep a sharpie in your pocket and relabel the tape as overspray begins to cover up the numbers.
15. b. Get a piece of plywood or an extra-large box that you can use to practice painting with the sprayer. The sprayer is easy to use, but it still takes a little practice to make the paint even.
*Make sure to ask for a step-by-step tutorial from the Sherwin Williams salesperson. They will cover all that you need to know.
16. Spray the backs of the doors first, two at a time. Then go back and brush the seams between the panels and frames. Finally, using the mini-roller and thin-foam roll, roll over the entire door. Think of the sprayer as applying the paint and the roller as pressing it into the wood to even the coverage and help the bond. I supported the door with my hand from the back while I rolled.
17. Spray the fronts of the doors, two at a time, then back brush/roll as described above.
18. In the house, caulk all seams between primed cabinets and between walls and cabinets. (This makes a BIG difference, especially if you are painting a white or a light color.)
19. Apply a top coat of paint to the kitchen cabinets in a similar way as the primer.
Surprisingly, our cabinets only needed one topcoat. Using quality paint is ALWAYS worth the money. In this case, it saved us from the hours of work, drying time, and materials of a second coat. In addition, the paint has held up beautifully over two years of high wear. I just applied my first touched ups since painting. It took about 10 minutes and the brushed-on touchups blended perfectly into the existing paint.
Allow a day or two for curing before reattaching hardware and hanging fronts. Drying times vary greatly with temperature and humidity.
Put It All Back Together
20.) Reattach all of your cabinet doors and drawers using the numbering system. See notes below if you are changing hinges or hardware on your doors.
NOTES
- If you are replacing visible hinges with hidden, I HIGHLY recommend using this Kreg Tool Company concealed hinge jig. It made the job far easier. The hole location and depth was perfect every time.
- If you are drilling holes for new hardware, I recommend using a template like this Rok Hardware Knob Handle Pull Drill Mounting Template.
- If you need sound dampening door bumpers, we have been very pleased with these 1/2″ diameter bumpers by 3M. I am amazed by how well they work. I didn’t bother with slow-close hinges. These bumpers are so quiet that I haven’t regretted the decision.
Look at those before and after photos! I could not be happier with the results. If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to transform your home, consider adding some paint to your kitchen cabinets.
If you want to see another transformation using paint check out this post:
INEXPENSIVE MASTER BEDROOM TRANSFORMATION WITH PAINTED HARDWOOD FLOORS